Food News

Uncommon Goods: A Man and His Ox

by: Ed Yowell

“Whoa, farming with oxen…there’s a story,” I thought when, at a Wednesday, Union Square Greenmarket, I spoke to farmer and friend Mike Betit, of Tamarack Hollow Farm in Burlington, Vermont.  (Some Newsletter readers may remember Mike as one of four, a farmer, Mike, two butchers, and a chef, who returned to omnivorous ways after their adventures in vegetarianism, as recounted in ‘Born Again Omnivores.”

Mike, and his partner Amanda Andrews, farm 88 acres, with about six acres under organic cultivation in 2011 and with plans to increase to ten acres this spring.  Tamarack Hollow started transitioning from being primarily a pig farm to a more diversified operation in 2008.  With the Great Recession, Mike saw the demand for his sustainably raised, pastured pigs start to decrease…he produced 300 pigs in 2008 and 70 in 2011.  Mike said, "Prior to 2008, the demand for good protein was increasing, and supply increased to meet the demand.”  He continued, “With the recession, people just weren't buying high-priced protein. It was one of the first things they cut."  Consequently, Mike and Amanda’s fresh and smoked pork products at market are now increasingly supplemented by organic produce including greens and cabbages and turnips, radishes, and other root vegetables.  

Farm Bill 1.08

Subsidizing the National Breadbasket
By Abby Youngblood and Ed Yowell

A Little Farm Subsidy History
During the Great Depression, rural poverty and non-rural hunger were profound.  The nation’s first Farm Bill, the 1933 Agricultural Adjustment Act, was a part of President Franklin Delano Roosevelt’s New Deal.  In it, commodity crop-specific price and income support programs were established to assist farmers economically and to help feed the hungry.  Since that time, these supports have been a core part of agricultural policy in the United States, comprising the most significant portion of the “farm safety net.”  Successive Farm Bills, from the second, the 1936 Soil Conservation and Domestic Allotment Act, to the most recent, the 2008 Food, Conservation, and Energy Act, perpetuated the farm safety net.  However, both the structure of the farm safety net and scale and character of farming in the United States have changed dramatically since the first farm bill was introduced in 1933.  

The original farm safety net helped support the small, labor intensive, diversified farms that then characterized farming in the United States.  The 1936 Farm Bill linked commodity programs and soil conservation and encouraged farmers to idle some of their land to avoid overproduction.  The following Farm Bills, of 1949, 1954, and 1956, continued to rely on price supports and supply control (farmers being paid to leave land unused or to put crops into storage).  However, since World War II, farming changed in a number of ways: 

Uncommon Goods: Amber Waves Farm

by Rosalyn Luetum

More than ever, great attention is being placed on what’s being put on our plates – not just by chefs, but also parents, school administrators and environmentalists.   People are now just as curious about where their food comes from and how it’s grown as they are in its nutritional value.  In the “Uncommon Goods” series, FSNYC takes a look at local farms with a unique charm.

Out in Amagansett, Long Island, two lovely young women are regularly out under the sun, but they’re not vacationing or at a resort; they’re working on their farm.  Amanda Merrow and Katie Baldwin, co-founders of Amber Waves Farm, have been growing grains and produce in a 7.5-acre plot of land behind the Amagansett Farmer’s Market since 2009.   

Baldwin acknowledges that much of the attention Amber Waves has received is due to the fact that it’s owned and operated by two women.  “It attracts positive attention, and once we have the attention we use it to talk about sustainability and environmental issues,” said Baldwin.

A Conversation with Food Policy Analyst Alissa Weiss About the Latest FoodWorks Legislation

Assembled by the FSNYC Communications Committee
Edited by: Hans Bernier

Over the summer the New York City Council introduced 5 pieces of
legislation that will hopefully change the way city looks at its food.
As stated in its press release, the new FoodWorks Bill:


“aims to encourage regional farming, facilitate the identification of city property for gardens or agricultural use and decrease the city’s waste and energy usage, while also increasing the transparency of the city’s progress toward better nutritional outcomes and public health.”


The FSNYC Communications Committee recently corresponded with Alissa Weiss a Senior Policy Analyst with Speaker Christine Quinn’s office. The communications committee assembled a set of questions regarding the legislations impact and how it will be implemented on the ground. We want to thank Senior Analyst Weiss for taking the time to answer our inquiries thoroughly and honestly.

Why the Food Movement Should Occupy Wall Street

by Siena Chrisman 

I went to the Occupy Wall Street march last week, as part of the NYC food justice delegation. We carried baskets of farmers market vegetables and signs reading "Stop Gambling on Hunger" and "Food Not Bonds." Food justice advocates came out from around the city -- urban farmers, gardeners, youth, professors, union members, and community organizers. The vegetables attracted a lot of attention. Food so often attracts a lot of attention -- The New York Times is just one of the outlets to focus in recent days on the makeshift kitchen at Zuccotti Park. What was more surprising were all of the puzzled looks we got from the bloggers, photographers, and other marchers who wanted to talk to us. "What's the connection here with food?" we were asked many times.

The connection of the protests with food, of course, runs from the local to the global, the specific to the ephemeral. Food justice advocates are connecting with Occupy sites all around the country to donate fresh, healthy, local food or to help find kitchen space. On a broader philosophical level, as Mark Bittman writes in the Times, "Whether we're talking about food, politics, health care, housing, the environment, or banking, the big question remains the same: How do we bring about fundamental change?" But there are also clear and specific reasons that all of us working for a just and fair food system, as the food movement should make the connection between our work and Occupy Wall Street explicit and strong.

No Goat Left Behind

Anne Saxelby explains the impetus behind Heritage Foods USA's No Goat Left Behind initiative.

by Gabrielle Blavatsky

Last month, Heritage Foods USA-purveyors of sustainable and humanely raised heritage meats- launched the No Goat Left Behind campaign. In partnership with fifteen family farmers, the organization is working to bring goat meat into homes and restaurants across the nation. The No Goat Left Behind project was designed both to market goat as a viable meat product in the United States and help dairy farmers with extra male goats earn additional income.

 

There is an often-unrecognized link between the meat and dairy industries. In order to produce milk, a female goat (or cow) has to give birth. As nature would have it, half of these babies are male and half are female. Females are kept by the dairy farmer and eventually introduced into the milking population. Unable to produce milk, male goats are either killed at birth or sold at auction for next to nothing. Unlike cows, goats do not fair well in confinement and can’t subsist off of a grain diet. In addition, for weeks after they are born, goats must be fed milk or costly milk alternative that is usually administered by hand. These onerous requirements currently make raising male goats extremely expensive for farmers. 

Eating goat is not as unusual as it sounds. In fact, goat is the most widely consumed protein in the world. According Bruce Weinstein and Mark Scarbrough—authors of Goats Meat, Milk, Cheese, 70% of the red meat eaten across the world is goat meat. This global trend has been catching on in the United States as well. Nonetheless, the USDA reports that the number of goats slaughtered has doubled every 10 years for the past three decades. In fact, American farmers currently slaughter almost 800,000 meat goats a year.  This growth is a by-product of the development of the dairy goat industry for cheese.

Meat Week is Here!

by: Adriana Velez
November is off to meaty start thanks to Meat Week, running November 7 through 12. The series of tastings, demos, tours, and panels was created to “celebrate the farmers, markets, and chefs who bring sustainable meat to our tables.”

Food Karma Projects is producing Meat Week in collaboration with GrowNYC, Just Food, and Food Systems Network NYC. Proceeds from some of the events will go toward a Farmer Relief Fund for farmers affected by Hurricane Irene.

Meat Week launches with “Meat With A Twist,” a farm-to-(cocktail) table party on November 7 at City Winery. Ten cocktails will be paired with ten chef-prepared small plates featuring local and sustainably-raised meats (including ostrich). Contributors include mixologist Zach Fisher (Blue Owl), Jessica Wilson (Goat Town), and Hudson Valley Duck Farm, among many others. WNYC’s Leonard Lopate and food writer Helen Hollyman will present “Local Meat Hero” awards. Proceeds from the event will benefit FSNYC. 



Haute Cuisine Gone Green: James Beard Foundation Focuses on Sustainability

By Kerry Trueman

reblogged with permission from the author from Civil Eats

October 20th, 2011- Two miles north of Zuccotti Park, where Occupy Wall Street‘s encamped, there’s another would-be hotspot of cultural change occupying a more genteel locale: the James Beard Foundation (JBF). Seriously? This epicurean epicenter housed in an elegant West Village brownstone with eternally well-tended window boxes, wants to stir up something more culturally significant than mouth-watering meals curated by celebrity chefs?

Well, yes. And it’s a logical move, if they don’t want to see their legacy (or their democracy) go down the toilet. After all, as Mario Batali once pointed out on CBS Sunday Morning, “When you think about it, all my greatest work is poop, tomorrow.”Ah, but not all excrement is created equal. On the one hand, intensive pork production’s given us vast pools of lethally toxic pig poop known as manure lagoons, more akin to radioactive waste than organic manure. On the other hand, there are worm castings, the highly fertile poop extruded by earthworms that looks like coffee grounds and smells pleasantly earthy.

The respective hazards and merits of various manures has not, historically, been the province of the JBF. This highly influential culinary center, founded after the legendary chef and cookbook author James Beard’s death in 1985 at the age of 81, is better known for its awards honoring outstanding chefs, restaurateurs, and writers.

But with the current American diet in such a dire state, the JBF folks are not content to simply celebrate culinary and literary excellence. Eager to play a more proactive role in reshaping our food system, the JBF has come down squarely in favor of a future that features more worm castings and fewer manure lagoons.

Flour Goes Local: Heritage Grains Come to Greenmarket

By Jesse Appelman

jappelman@gmail.com

October 28, 2011- My neighborhood farmers’ market has at least a dozen varieties of apples right now, and you can get heirloom tomatoes in chain supermarkets these days. But when was the last time you bought local flour? Wheat is wheat, right?

As it turns out, wheat is not just wheat. Heritage grain varieties – wheat, rye, oats, and even exotic-sounding grains like emmer – used to be grown all over. And while a few local farms, like Cayuga Pure Organics of Brooktondale, NY, are starting to bring these delicious and underutilized crops back to the northeast, it’s still tough to
find a truly local loaf of bread or bowl of oatmeal.

Greenmarket is working hard to bring heritage grains back to the Northeast, and a pair of new USDA grants will help them and several partners to take some critical steps in developing the knowledge, raw materials, and infrastructure needed to do so.

Just the Tip of the Iceberg: Food Day 2011

By Rosalin Luetum

On Monday, October 24, hundreds of thousands of Americans gathered at more than 2,300 states throughout the country for Food Day – making it the largest grassroots mobilization for improved food policies in history, according to its sponsor, the Center for Science in the Public Interest.

New Yorkers participated in a wide array of Food Day events organized throughout the boroughs.  At the top of the day, Mayor Michael Bloomberg greeted morning commuters at Steinway Street and 34th Avenue, Queens, handing out fresh apples as an example of an easy, affordable step to better health.  More than 3,000 apples were distributed, through a generous donation from the New York Apple Association.

Food enthusiasts of all ages found fun, creative ways to celebrate Food Day.  At Fairway in Harlem, two teams of HealthCorps high school students participated in Family Cook Productions' Teen Battle Chef Showdown, presenting two different ethnic recipes involving seasonal produce. Click here for showdown photos and a recipe for the winning dish, Indian Chickpea Curry with Butternut Squash.

Pages